I have had my TR1 only for 4 weeks so this bike is very new to me, at this stage new users ask lots of questions. I have found this forum to be very good and the users very helpful, thank you.

I learnt so far of several upgrades , for instance the oil feed banjo drilling slightly bigger. And alternative 4 brush starter motor (i'm still not sure which one but I know there is one) also putting bearings for the cams. I am sure there are more.

Is there a list of the known upgrades for the TR1? Maybe it would be a good idea if someone who knows the TR1 very well to put a list of upgrades, particularly those that are a precautionary measure to prevent engine damage. Maybe such a list could be sticky at the top of the Tip and tricks page so new forum members can check if their TR1 has the modification.

Using an oilpump from the xv1100 is a good idea.

Guess, I'll do a quick run-down then.

Engine:
* 4-Brush-starter
* (late) XV1100 starter gear (less clunky)
* (late) XV1100 starter clutch (slightly better gearing, cheaper starter clutch, clutch and corresponding gear have to be swapped out as a unit)
* swiveling valve adjusters ("Kugelkopfeinstellschrauben", for less wear on the valve ends)
* Viton valve stem seals (can be bought in the US, they are tighter and literally last forever, otherwise get OEM Yamaha stem seals, 5-6 Euros well spent)

nice engine upgrades:
* 9-disk clutch upgrade (only really necessary with a hopped engine)
* XV1100 crank, pistons and cylinders (more torque, modern mls headgaskets, oversize pistons readily available, heavier crank for max torque down low)
alternatively
* XVS1100/BT1100 crank, pistons and cylinders (Nicasil plated cylinders, lighter than stock crank)
* XV750 heads (bump up the compression, smaller valves mean higher gas velocity at low rpm, leads to more torque)
* Smoothbore carbs (Sepp likes Dellortos, I like Mikuni VM38s and will try TM38s this year (those can be bought in a version, that won't require different inlet rubbers, but still some fabrication required))
* some decent stainless steel headers and mufferls(I am currently on iteration Mk.7, Sepp has got a very nice setup too, if you want a high up)

Suspension:
* stiffer forksprings
* steelbraided brake-hose
* 14mm brake m/c (more feel on the lever with braided brake hose, otherwise it'll feel a lot like squeezing a brick)
* different rearshock (I run an early XT600 shock on the rear, Wilbers, Hagon, Bitubo, etc. do nice aftermarket shocks)
* BT45 tyres

Electrical:
* You can alter the stock wiring loom to get rid of all the relays and just run it all over one automative 30A relay instead, alternatively Odin on here does custom looms with all sorts of trickery
* buy a set of spare start- and horn-buttons (the plastic will break eventually)
* re-tighten the contacts on the kill-switch as they tend to work themselves lose.
* starter can be bought via various sources, get a 4-brush if you can
* caltric does a starter-solenoid, which is a bolt-on replacement, otherwise the one from a Suzuki Samurai/SJ413/Swift can be modified to fit
* get a decent battery
* Replacement regulators can be bought via Electrexworld-UK

I may modify this post later on, if something else springs to mind.

Cheers,
Greg

All

A little more on the oil flow to the cylinder heads.

1. Remove the oil pump and clean out the mesh filter.
2. Replace oil pump with one from an XV1100 or Bulldog. It has a larger mesh filter. (As stated above by George)
3. Drill out the banjo bolts that takes feed from the oil pump to the two oil feed pipes to the cylinder heads. Max 2.4mm. (Smaller and you don't get enough oil flow to the heads. Larger and you get too little flow to the main journals. (As stated above by George)
4. Replace the white metal cam bearings with roller bearings. Remove the plastic bearing dust cover on the inside face. They are a cheap and a direct replacement.

Regards
Kevin

Ali, they are hints und Kunz wanz...................bitte übasetzn.
Sepp, coming grod vom Schdammdisch.