Yep, that's how I did it with the TM40ies. Two standard carbs (plus an adapter, but that's TM-specific, because the inlet was too short) and then two pieces of 1-into-2 splitters, one for the throttle cables and one for the choke cables.

I mean, of course you could come up with a linkage, but that would be a lot of engineering overhead for little gains. Strictly speaking… no gains at all. Best part of two individual carbs has got to be the fact, that you can just quickly take one out and tinker with it and re-install it.

Truth be told, if the Mikunis off the 1100 don't work satisfactory, I'll probably venture down that route on my everyday TR1 as well, just because it makes carb maintenance so much easier.

Cheers,
Greg

Hi guys.
Its been a while.
Anyway I got a set of heikin cvk's off a kle 650. Measured 35mm on the ID on the motor side.
Got 96 main jet and 53 pilot.
Would these work if I changed the jets or drill them and if so what size should I go for.

Thanx Greg. I got them for free so lets check what happens... lol

Think I should ask the guy if he has the klr spares lying around too.

Ok I tossed the KLE's carb and went back to the Hitachi. thought ill tinker with that first until I have exhausted all options.
I drilled my main to 1,5mm and left my pilot as stock. Got it running again but backfires if I flick the throttle at idle.
All other throttle positions are ok. If I get it past about 1/8 throttle and flick it she doesn't backfire.

I have a set and yep, they aren't exactly the worst tool in the world to get the jetting in the right ballparks. It's no dyno with a gas-analyzer, but when used with some common-sense you can achieve quite remarkable results. Especially in deciphering odd behaviour, such as too small pilot jet, paired with a too big main-jet and therefore running and idleing quite nice, but not performing well.

Cheers,
Greg