Wheel upgrade done and engine renovated

Question: Does anyone know where to find camshafts and rockers arms for a reasonable price? Will need to shift them sooner or later.

pic as is:

Quote from Odin on 01.05.12 at 00:57:57:


Just the original TR1 frontlight Might look a bit different since I cleaned off everything around it + lowered it + 16" / 130 tyre at the front... but still just the original light.

But good that you think it looks big 'cause that's the purpose  

Quote from Odin on 01.05.12 at 13:30:03:


Yes, it's a bit easier with modifications on bikes here in Sweden.

Noone who has tips regarding to camshafts/rocker arms? I was hoping to find a good & cheap source in Germany...

Thanks Odin!

I got the advice to also check the possibility to renovate the ones I got, apparently that's possible in some cases. Will check that with some local motor repair shops.

Cool forum, du gjorde i Sverige.
Men jag kan inte läsa, jag förstår ingenting   (JOKE)

Quote from Max on 03.05.12 at 15:37:26:


Everything at the rear is "home made" including the rear seat. The seat I made is very simple as is, will probably make a new one when I get the time...

There are some pics in the thread, included here in the first post, regarding how the seat was build. But again nothing fancy & home made...

Quote from mrmadmax on 03.05.12 at 18:04:17:


Jeep ....  Good save Googel  

Quote from Odin on 04.05.12 at 18:42:55:


I've got it sorted yesterday!   Had a broken cable which took me some tome to find. I've got the bike almost all together again today, just need to put the front light in place again with all the cabling...  

After that I should be good to go again for the season. Some minor things to fix such as the rear seat, adjust front wheel which is slightly unbalanced at 100+ km/h...

Edit: I still think I got a problem with the neatral indicator. I can live with that problem but will check the switch when I have the time...

Quote from Odin on 05.05.12 at 12:04:31:


Exactly

But today when I put everything together again even the neutral indicator worked (at least for now). I figure I sooner or later have to check and clean the switch. Thanks for your advice!

Have a little oil leakage and spotted that it came from the neutral indicator switch on the left side. Thought that I first just should try to tighten it to see if it would help but is snapped! Can turn it now with some force without locking it.    Something broke, I hope it wasn't the threading in the engine block. Tightened it as good as I could, we'll see if it leaks even more oil now...

Question, anyone who has experience from these neutral indicators? Do they often leak? Just from gasket or from the "inside"? Easy to break with too high torque? (Even if I did not use much force.)

Just checking if any comments before I take the time to drain the oil and unscrew the damn thing... Possibly need to buy a new one or in worst case try to repair threads in the engine block.

Thanks for any help!  

Quote from Odin on 05.07.12 at 22:49:55:


Thanks Odin. Let's hope it's broken, will have closer look this weekend. Have asked my local dealers if they have the part in store...

What do mean with your last sentence "Replace the oil must NOT be released"?

Attaching also a pic of new front wheel. If anyone is going for 16" front I can recommend Avon Venom-X 130 wide, perfect fit with just enough space to the forks (several mm! )

FUCK .....  why you dont ask us here .... i have one oder more .... must only seek.
An a but the price, we have found a very fair way ...  

No Prob  

Been driving a bit with 278cc oil in the forks, also cut the spring just a bit (15mm or so) and not much air pressure. Still a bit stiff but not as bad as last year...

Considering to put on a steering damper, been searching on the net to see if someone done that on a TR1 & if so what solution. Any ideas?

Evening pic as well from the other week, almost complete. Sadle has to be made properly and steering damper wanted...

Cheers!

Quote from mrmadmax on 15.05.13 at 20:26:49:


This fat front tire is likely to cause such problems. Try and reduce it to a 120 and You will probably feel no need for a steering damper.


Cheers,
Stefan

Quote from stefan stein on 16.05.13 at 10:42:01:


Thanks!

The concept with my build includes as fat tires as possible so reducing to smaller size is not on my list for the moment   Actually it works better than expected with the fat front tyre. Had the same set up last year for a few thousands km of driving, incl long trips and active driving.

The problem I have is that when driving very actively on small curvy roads and hitting a bump in the road then it's  getting a bit nervous...   No surprice with old front forks, TR1 frame, shortened in the front, fat tyre etc... So I figure a steering damper would calm things down when hitting a big bump (small roads in Sweden can be in pretty bad shape after long cold winters with ice & snow).

I actually found one TR1 build with a steering damper, pretty great building in progress, especially the engine re-work, have a look. But the steering damper solution I was not impressed of so I am looking for a smoother solution. --> http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?259391-Yamaha-TR1-XV920R-Project

Cheers!  

Quote from Sepp on 18.05.13 at 06:00:46:


Thanks, excellent!

Haven't thought about that but it sounds reasonable. Thinking about it I also get a hit in the rear in these bumps and of Course that adds to the problem.

Can I change the spring only? Had a look previous year and disambly of the rear shock seemed tricky.

Or better to change the complete chock? Any ideas of a more modern direct fit? Possibly a bit shorter would be fine