Hi all, just bought a TR1 48k miles and in perfect condition. I'm the 3rd owner, previous owner bought it in '87. It's been in store since '06. I have removed and cleaned the carbs out. Have a big fat spark on the front cyl and unburnt fuel is leaking from the exhaust now. Both cyls have a compression of 120/30psi.... Any ideas????

Thanks for that..no! Haven't tried that but yes do have a spark but going to try a new set??

If fuel leaks out of the exhaust, there is something else wrong than the spark plug... Re-check the fuel tap and the                  float needle valve in the carburettor.

Bye,
Georg

Quote from hornschorsch on 09.10.13 at 10:05:31:

Hi Georg...bought a new set of plugs and plug caps ..I do have a good spark?...compression is 130 psi front and 120 rear.. Down pipe front now gets warm(not hot) like just warm not cold! I have found anothe TCI and coils to try ... It idles fine but smokes badly although not sure if it's oil smoke or just collected over unburnt fuel??? Do you think that there is anything mechanical stopping it running????

Hi,

1. Do You see good sparks when You unscrew the spark plug, stick it in its cap and put it somewhere near the motor? Just start the engine, and You should see regular sparks.

2. What happens when the motor is idling on the rear cylinder and You spray some stuff like brake cleaner on the carb holder of the front cylinder?

3. After idling for a minute, take the front spark plug out: Is it wet?

Regards,
Stefan

Hello Kingprawn

Where are you based?

Kevin (from Salisbury)

Quote from kdemery on 15.11.13 at 12:02:34:

No.... Still nothing. Now waiting for my new carb kits and new fitted diaphragms to come back. I noticed a pinhole in one of them... Unfortunately in the cylinder that worked!!!! .. But hey new jets and fresh rubber then I can rule all of the fuel side out!

Hello KingPrawn

I checked through your thread above and there are a couple of things that are worth noting.

1. You say that the front exhaust is 'warm'. The front exhaust is double skinned and until run for a period will be considerably cooler that the rear exhaust. The best place to check the temp of the cyclinder is to place your hands on the barrels on the non-cam belt side of the engine. Left side for front cylinder and right for the rear cyclinder That should give you a direct comparison.

2. I have had a similar problem but found it was the fuel tap. Have you removed both pipes to the tap and checked that fuel only flows when the tap is turned to Prime or when there is a vacuum on the carb manifold side? If the fuel tap is faulty it will cause fuel to run into the cylinder causing excess fuel in the exhaust or it won't fire. These are symptoms you have described.

3. I know this may be stupid but I have to ask. When you run low on fuel, as there are two fuel taps, it always runs out of fuel on one side first. The symptom is that it appears to be running on only one cylinder. Is the fuel tank at least 1/3 full?

4. You can swap the ignition coils over. Swap the plugs on the molex connectors and swap the HT leads on the coils. If you have a weak coil the symptom will move to the other cyclinder. I have a manual that describes how to test the coils using an ohm meter. If you need that please let me know and I will forward it.

Hope this helps?

Regards
Kevin

Let me know how you get on.

I have an old XV750 I am trying to get running. Just changed the carb jets, just like you. I know how you feel.

Regards
Kevin

Sorry PrawnBoy ( ), I'm a bit late on this! Have you invested in carb diaphragms yet? One of mine had a tiny pinhole in it and I'm confident that a smear of Stormsure PU adhesive will have sealed that effectively. Useful stuff to have around because it cures and sticks better than anything else I've ever tried: welly-boots, wetsuits, whatever...

Nick, UK

Did you re-synchronized the carburetors?

So have it all back together and it's worse than before now... What have I done!!! If I put the plugs to earth on the crank case the spark is fantastic.. But resting the plug anywhere on the cylinder and there is no spark or a very weak one... Is the right??? Could there be a poor earth to the cylinders ??? Clutching at straws here!!!!

Quote from KINGPRAWN on 10.12.13 at 12:18:49:


The butterfly valves must both be completely closed and then they MUST OPEN SIMULTANEOUSLY, when put into action. This is important. Otherwise the engine will not start at all or will be running on only one cylinder. This backfiring is a typical effect.

Hang on,

Stefan

  SHE PURS LIKE A KITTEN AND ROARS LIKE A LION  

I have had exactly the same problems I tried carb cleaning ,new plugs ,caps etc got a reasonable result with a change of front coil but still not right ,you could grab hold of the front downpipe but you could hear it try to pop in every now and then and fuel dripping from exhaust etc .As a last resort before suicide I took the carbs off again I bought nrp keyster kits which are different for the front and rear cylinder I know the jets are different but I was also wondering if the needles were as well, but heres the crux when checking the needles I noticed more up down movement within the needle itself on the front pot ,the needles are held in place by a plastic allan bolt which contains a spring which presses down upon the needle, upon replacement of all parts far less /almost none ,movement within said spring and needle so I was guessing this was a major part of the problem as now both pots run hot although mine are still a bit rich but that could be down to the predator exhaust pipe ,hope this helps ,good luck