Quote from crazy cow on 01.01.12 at 19:36:10:

Merci pour ta réponse mais oui j'ai bien tout nettoyé, par contre sur "Pri" je n'ai pas d'essence qui coule ni du robinet ni de la seconde ligne sur la droite qui est branché à la pipe d'admission du cylindre avant
peut-être ça vient de là ?

Par contre sur mon TR1 de 1981 je n'ai pas le clapet de commande de mélange..c'est normal ça ?


et je n'ai pas non plus ces carbus et la vis de ralentit est à l'extérieur (c'est des Hitachi)

Hi,

1. Forget about "le clapet de commande de mélange". It was good for nothing.

2. Yes, try this other fuel cock You got. It should work. If not, there are service kits on the internet.

3. most important: This channel that I'm talking about is inside the wall of the carburetor bowl. There is just a hole at the upper edge and another very tiny hole at the bottom to be seen. This is only for idling.

Cheers,

Stefan

I think you are mixing things up a little bit.

The fuel tap works like this. In Position ON or RES, the tap is opened via vaccum from the intake manifold if the engine is running. The vaccum is run to the fuel tap via the slightly thinner rubber line. There should NO fuel run through that line in either position of the fuel tap. The fuel runs via the thicker rubber line into the carbs, in position ON or RES there should only run fuel if the engine is running (or if you suck on the thinner rubber line).

In position PRI (prime) the fuel should always run through the thicker line into the carbs, so this is the proper position to start an engine whose carbs have been dismounted or that has sat around for a longer while, because the carbs are then flooded with fresh fuel.

To check this, pull off the thicker rubber lines and turn the tap on PRI. The fuel must spurt out of the line quite strongly, it should not dripple. Otherwise, check and clean the fuel tap. Then refit the line and turn the tap on PRI again and try to start after a few seconds.

Then these channels in the wall of the floatbowl: I am 99% sure that they are "only" needed for the choke. If the engine is warm an running without choke, it takes its fuel via the idle jet that sits on the bottom side of the carb (under the floatbowl of course) besides the main jet.

Good Luck,
Georg

Thanks a lot George for all theses explanations about the "PRI" Fonction, i'm seeing a bit better now what it is...

Now another "great" things :
The starter motor doesn't engage anymore...a great ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzziiiiiiiiiiiiii make him heard when i push the start button...so happy I am...
seem like there is a gearing that is dead or no more teeth..(a bit like me..)...
the starter motor run well but not engaging anymore the engine...
do you know what was fucked up by trying to start her too much with no result ??? arrrggggggggggggggg

i think i'm good to take of the left carter to see what's in..
thanks for your help

I'll tell You another funny story: This one way clutch is not even needed with the TR1. That's the best thing about it.
Some people block it by putting srews just through the casing in the inside. Others prefer welding/soudage.
Personally, I fix it as described. Because sometimes the welding points break or the screws get loose, and You wouldn't want to have this kind of trouble inside the engine. There are enormous forces at work, while starting this engine. And the whole starting system is not fit for this job and therefor is the major cause of problems, the TR1's weakest point. It must have been constructed on monday morning by a person who was really sick a nd didn't know what he was doing at all.

so hang on,

ST